When people talk about Vietnam, they generally focus on either Hanoi in the North or Saigon in the South and rarely is the Central ever mentioned. During the Vietnam War and previous conflicts, Central Vietnam served as a very critical strategic location which when given up by the South in 1968 was one of the factors in the North’s victory. This most likely explains why many of the cities we visited in the Central had roads that were formerly airstrips and Da Nang itself use to be a large U.S military base. During the tour of the DMZ, it was also explained that the Central were the location of many battles because it was in many people’s eyes, the key to winning the war. Beyond being a strategic military location, not much is known about the Central by many outsiders and even the Vietnamese people. Of course, there are some major international attractions like Hoi An, but the region as a whole is constantly overshadowed by the North and South. However, things are beginning to drastically change and with the great influx of foreign investments and the presence of foreigners, the central will soon emerge as its on cultural and economic center. My fear is that the growth and development going on here is not sustainable or organic and takes a very Western approach. I have yet to travel to the South, but in comparison to the North, Central Vietnam is significantly different and unique in its own right and offer many things not found in its northern counterpart, such as a greater variety of different foods. Interestingly enough, this difference sparked a huge debate between myself and some very prideful Hanu students. My personal view is that the central, lead by Da Nang has the potential to surpass Hanoi in terms of international attraction and economics.
Although, the government is starting loosen its grip in terms of regulation and control in Hanoi, in my opinion the reign of freedom is more limited than in Central cities. As a result of its location, cities like Da Nang have more options in terms of development and many people deem it to be the “second Singapore” and essentially the vital link to California and Southeast Asia. The East-West Corridor, which begins in Myanmar runs through Thailand, makes Da Nang the vital highway to the Western world. While the North looks to the government for guidance and the South relies heavily on foreign influence, I believe the Central has a great blend and its own independence in decision making. One notable thing about Da Nang is that although it is very developed in terms of infrastructure, buildings, and economy, there is still an unofficial curfew at about 10 pm. Many of the shops, café, and even night club begin to close their doors and a silence falls about the city. I was truly shocked that such a developed city could shut down for the night, especially at such an early time. However, I see this as an effort to preserve old traditions and customs in the face of globalization and the fact that the city unofficially sleeps at 10 is really significant.
Another thing that stood out in the Central was that in cities like Da Nang and even Hue, I saw a lot more foreigners than in Hanoi, which surprised me a lot. This could be due to a number of things, but my guess is that less government regulations¸ more tourist destinations, better food, and the people account for this phenomenon. This leads back to the debate I was having with some of the Hanu students and these are some of the reasons I listed about why I enjoyed Central Vietnam much more than Hanoi. They attribute it to the fact that I’ve been in Hanoi longer and the Central was something new, so naturally it would resonate with me more. While this may be a credible argument, the fact of the matter is some of the latter reasons are irrelevant to their argument. For one, there was a great deal more variety of food in the Central and to me the food was of a better quality in terms of taste and flavors. The foods in Central Vietnam seem to employ more spices, sweetness, and stronger flavors which I am accustomed to while the food in Hanoi seem to be bland. In response, the Hanu students argued that our families are from the South so we are accustomed to these flavors which is different from the North own style. However, we are not all ethnically Vietnamese and you can’t argue with 24 different taste buds from very different backgrounds.
Another stark difference was the attitude and pleasantness of the people from the Central who seem to be much more welcoming and accommodating. One experience in particular occurred when a group of us went to eat. The owner created us with a warm smile sat us down near fans and started to explain the different foods they offered. When we told him we weren’t sure, he started to suggest different dishes and eventually selected a very delicious three course meal, consisting of Bun Bo Hue, Banh xeo, and noodles. He continued to converse with us and other customers and checked on us frequently. Even many of the Hanu students who have been to the central had to concede that the service was better than in the North. The dinner was exceptionally cheap and we were even given wet napkins for free, which if we were back in the North would have been charged for. Another example of difference in behavior, was the lack of unnecessary honking that occurred on the road, which was very pleasant after the constant bombardment of beeps and honks back in Hanoi. Overall the people we’re much more friendlier and welcoming than Hanoians and this was true for all the Central cities we visited.
To conclude the Central trip, it was an exceptionally enjoyable experience that I would have loved to experience for a longer period of time. Speaking on behalf of all the UC students, the Central in comparison to the North is a much more pleasant and comfortable place to live. The difference in opinion between myself and the Hanu students will never be resolved and expectedly so, and while I understand where they are coming from, my opinions are very strong based on my experiences. The friendliness of the people, the large variety of flavorful food, and just the overall feel of the place made it extremely hard to return to Hanoi. I even sense some resentment and anger from people when we arrived home and suitably, we were greeted by an angry man yelling at one of our members for no particular reason. Welcome back to Hanoi, ladies and gentlemen.
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